Copacabana, located in the Manco Kápac province of the department of La Paz, is an emblematic destination in Bolivia known for its cultural richness, spirituality and for being the best window to the majestic Lake Titicaca. This place, where history, traditions and natural beauty intertwine, attracts thousands of visitors seeking unique experiences. However, under this magical atmosphere, problems persist that reflect both neglect and challenges to its development.
Despite its growing tourist flow, getting to Copacabana involves going through a difficult path if using public transportation. The buses and minibuses that leave from an area near the General Cemetery of La Paz usually operate without any control, in conditions that are not very suitable for passengers.
The trip, which lasts approximately three and a half hours to the Strait of Tiquina, is made in somewhat uncomfortable, unhygienic and sometimes overloaded vehicles, where there is no shortage of people with pets or food that saturates the spaces. Passenger protests usually result in resignation in the face of a service that does not offer better options.
The crossing of the Strait of Tiquina, although exciting in the surroundings of Lake Titicaca, highlights another problem: the lack of security. The boats, precarious and aging, do not have life jackets nor do they comply with minimum prevention measures, and the absence of supervision by members of the Bolivian Naval Force increases the risks. Once on the other side, the journey to Copacabana is fortunately shorter.
Despite these difficulties, when approaching Copacabana visitors feel a particular emotion when they see the Sanctuary, the Calvary and – of course – the lake. The town, with its Basilica of the Virgin Morena as its nucleus, becomes a space of spirituality and meditation. This church, designed and built between 1602 and 1619 under the supervision of architect Francisco Jiménez de Sigüenza, is the home of the venerated Virgin of Copacabana, carved in 1580 by indigenous artist Francisco Tito Yupanqui. Inside, it is also possible to visit the Chapel of the Advocations, which houses images such as the Virgin of Urkupiña or that of the Socavón. On one side of the temple, the Chapel of the Candles receives hundreds of faithful who light matches as a symbol of loved ones or personal requests, creating a unique atmosphere of devotion.
Aside from the wonderful spirituality, Copacabana offers a beautiful natural environment, with landscapes that stretch along the shores of Lake Titicaca. However, environmental neglect in the area is becoming increasingly evident. The streets, the main square and especially the beach are saturated with solid waste due to the lack of containers and poor waste management. This situation, which also causes a nauseating odor, represents an aesthetic problem with serious implications for the lake’s ecosystem, where species such as ispis are disappearing due to pollution.
The tourism boom, which could be an opportunity to generate resources and encourage sustainable development, is often marred by a lack of regulation and planning. There are some accommodations and restaurants that do not meet basic quality standards and prices increase excessively during high seasons, such as Easter. It is common for rates to rise between 30% and 100%, prioritizing the number of visitors over the quality of the services offered.
One of the infrastructures that could have improved this reality is the Tito Yupanqui airport, located just five kilometers from the central square. This terminal, inaugurated in 2018, was conceived to promote tourism, but to date it does not operate regular flights, which has generated a feeling of frustration among residents and limited access to travelers. The airport has become a “white elephant”, a symbol of large investments – like others by the MAS government – that do not meet the expectations or needs of the population.
Neglect in tourism and infrastructure management is also reflected in the deterioration of visitor confidence. The theft of the jewelry of the Virgin of Copacabana, which occurred in 2013, marked an episode that not only called into question the security of the Sanctuary, but also affected the image of the town as a tourist destination. Although multiple suspects were investigated, including Sanctuary staff and owners of nearby lodgings, the jewelry, valued at $300,000, was not recovered, leaving a void in the cultural memory of this place.
Despite the problems mentioned above, Copacabana remains a unique destination in Bolivia. The spirituality experienced in its Basilica, the beauty of Lake Titicaca and the possibility of connecting with history and nature make visitors return, even in the face of discomfort and setbacks.
The future of Copacabana will depend on the implementation of policies that promote sustainable tourism, improve the quality of services and protect the natural environment. Environmental education, price regulation and improvement in transportation and infrastructure conditions are essential to guarantee that this place retains its magic and develops responsibly.
Within the framework of the Bicentennial of Bolivia, which is celebrated this year, it is essential that the government assumes a firm commitment to prioritize these improvements in Copacabana, considering that this destination is not only a national emblem, but also a reference in the world that shows the cultural and natural wealth of the country.
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